Day two

Day two began with a shaft of eager sunlight striking my tent, creating an internal golden glow. Like the others I emerged from my tent feeling well rested and brimming with excitement for the coming day. Out on the strait remaining wisps of sea fog quickly vanished under the strengthening heat of the day.

After a hardy breakfast, we again packed our dry bags and made for the kayak beach, this time equipped with the makings for lunch. On the beach we gathered around a map to see our route for the day. Then the boats were loaded and off we were!

We paddled west along the shoreline constantly scanning the Strait for the glimmer of a black dorsal fin or a plume of breath. As we rounded Swain Pt. we did spot the shimmer of black although it was not Orca. About five Dall's porpoises surfaced a few times beside us before vanishing completely as they are known to do. Although these small black and white relatives to the Orca appeared docile on that sunny morning, they are actually the fastest swimming mammal in the world reaching speeds of over fifty km per hour.

About two hours after departing camp, just when our arms were craving a rest, we rounded a point to find a lovely pebble beach awaiting our arrival.

Once again, before our eyes appeared a feast to die for, this time with the added aesthetics of driftwood serving counters. In no time there lay platters of bagels, cream cheese, homus, salmon, smoked turkey, tomatoes, cucumbers, melon, and the list went on.

From here we left our boats and took a forest walk up to a whale research and observation station known as "Eagle Eye" due to its cliff top location.

Part way up the trail, the guides gathered us around a massive Red Cedar tree standing majestically to one side. Known as 'the corner stone of northwest coast Indian culture' because of the large scale use of its wood and bark, the red cedar's range outlines the cultural boundary of our coast's natives. Its long sinuous bark can be stripped from the tree and woven into clothing and baskets and its foliage provides an essential source of vitamin C. The wood of the cedar holds the rare combination of being extremely strong, flexible and resistant to rot, due to natural oils, yet soft enough to be carved with primitive stone tools. It is called "the tree of life" by the Kwakwaka'wakw, and is still highly respected by all northwest coast peoples for its spiritual and healing powers.

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