Late in September 2005, near the end of the Spirit of the West sea kayaking season, I flew to the small Heilsuk First Nations town of Bella-Bella to begin what was to be my first time exploring British Columbia's Great Bear Rainforest. Having read much about the beauty and unmatched ecological diversity of this area I had set my expectations high. Little did I know that this was gointo be one of the greatest sea kayaking adventures I have ever been on.

A 45-minute flight took me from Port Hardy on Northern Vancouver Island to the remote Heilsuk village of Bella-Bella where I was met by Miray Campbell, our tour leader, long time guide for Spirit of the West and my good friend. A short taxi ride through Bella-Bella brought us to the Columbia III, looking as beautiful as I last saw her in May that year. On board was Captain Ross Campbell, his wife, cook Fern Campbell, and their three children; tour leader Miray Campbell and deckhands Tavish and Farlyn Campbell. Also joining us were Miray's partner and first mate and guide Luke Hyatt and 7 guests from around North America.

The Campbell Family live on a remote coastal Island near Quadra Island. As the island isn't served by ferry, all transport to and from their remote homestead is by small boat from Quadra Island. This is homesteading in its purist form and has shaped the Campbell's into one of British Columbia's most extraordinary and inspiring families. Miray, Tavish and Farlyn were home schooled. Through this experience they learned skills that far exceed anything that could be taught in the Canadian public school system.

Miray and partner Luke are both accomplished musicians, making frequent winter trips to Ireland to play with some top Irish fiddlers and flutists. They are currently putting the finishing touches on their first home, which they built using locally milled lumber. Sixteen-year old twins Tavish and Farlyn have accomplished much at their young age. Tavish has been commercial fishing off the coast of the Queen Charlotte Islands for the past four summers. Farlyn is well on her way to getting her 60-ton skippers ticket, only government regulations requiring her to be 19 years old is stopping her.

Ross's charm and endless humour and Fern's passion for her natural surroundings round out the family/crew. The combination of the Campbell's hospitality, the historic and luxurious Columbia III and the spectacular surroundings make this trip an extraordinary experience.

On the first day of our adventure it rained like only the central coast can rain. This made us all happy we were on the Columbia III, all warm and dry. We decided it was best to start by exploring up the calm inlets where the rain storm was creating hundreds of waterfalls cascading down from 5000 feet from the many hanging valleys. When it came time to start our first kayak excursion we did so in the rain. We were all well dressed as our packing list said that rain is a likely companion on the central coast and part of the reason it is so lush and beautiful. So off we went, padding along the steep sided fjords. Waterfalls were everywhere, with the rain simply enhancing the experience. Although a short paddle, it was one of the most invigorating paddles I have ever been on. On our return to the Columbia we were once again reminded of the benefits of mothershipping; Warm, dry and food on the table. The remainder of the day was spent dinning on Fern's home cooked dinner along with some colorful conversation around the dinner table.

That evening we traveled to the mouth of the Clatse River where the previous group saw several groups of the salmon-eating wolves. It was late in the day so we did not manage to see them, but the next morning we were lucky to observe three wolves feed on spawning salmon. This was one of my first ever wolf experiences and I was thrilled to be able to see them in their natural habitat feasting on the returning pink salmon run.

Later that morning we paddled up the Clatse river, and although the wolves had left us, we came across a big beautiful black bear also enjoying a morning salmon snack. Due to the poor eye sight of a bear, we were able to get quite close to this beautiful creature enabling us to observe him feeding on the salmon while keeping our distance so as not to disturb its delicious breakfast.

Later that morning we returned to the Columbia and motored out the Quatsi River anchorage. To our pleasant surprise a couple of wolves were spotted on the beach and accompanied us on our slow exit out the bay. They followed us for about 1 km offering us a chance to get some great photos of them galloping along the rocky shoreline.

After some more amazing paddles and exploration deep within the heart of the Rainforest we decided to take the advice of a local resident to check out a place called Ellerslee Lake. The entrance to Ellersly Lake involved us waiting for the turn of the tide, as the entrance was a narrow gap with a very fast tidal flow. With the help of our guides, we managed to

safely work our way up the rapids to a calm lagoon that wound its way toward the mountains. A short paddle up the lagoon brought us to one of the most magnificent natural sights I have ever seen. The Ellersly lake falls. If this site was anywhere else less
remote and easier to access, it would surely be as popular as some of Canada's most popular natural wonders. In this case we had the falls all to ourselves. We spent a good hour playing with the falls, tempting its powerful torrent from our kayaks. Ofcourse the guides found this all great fun, and were able to take advantage of their white water skills enabling them to get within a few feet of the raging falls. Everyone had fun, even those of us who watched in awe from a safe, but still wet, distance.
Ellersly falls

On day 4 the weather was dry, calm and sunny. It was now time to paddle the outside coast, a moment I have been waiting for, for all my kayaking years. Destination, The Goose Islands. When you look on the chart, the Goose Islands sit solitary off the coast of the Great Bear Rainforest. An area you realize is so remote that it receives only a handful of visitors each year. But for those who are lucky enough to make it out there, it is a place so stunning it is hard to find words to describe. We dropped anchor in one of the protected bays and set out for a paddle around the smaller and aptly named Gosling Island. I felt like a kid again as we paddled the remote shore of the island. Poking in and out of surge channels, getting up close to the intense intertidal life and simply enjoying some of the best sea kayaking I have ever experienced. And yes, there were plenty of geese as well resting on their migratory path southward.

Later that day after a great lunch prepared on one of the white sand beaches, Tavish and I decided to try our luck at fishing. Both having fished several years commercially, we figured we would be able to pick the right spot to drop our hooks. After a couple of somewhat spotty areas, we decided to head out to an offshore reef. The waters were quite rough, and being in the close proximity of some unsettling boomers (large waves crashing on the off shore rocks) we thought we would give it a quick try. Well our hunch was right. Before I was able to get my line in the water, bang, Tavish was pulling in his first unusually large bottom fish from the depths. I then proceeded to drop mine in the water and bang, seconds later I was pulling in my first of many lunkers. It was unbelievable. We stayed for about an hour catching and releasing fish. At the end of the fishing stint we kept a couple to feed the crew and guests back on the Columbia. What a way to end our expedition out to the Goose Islands.

Our 5th and last full day on the coast was spent exploring an area that looked intriguing on the chart but knew no one who had paddled there before. We anchored in a perfectly sheltered little bay and launched into the calm foggy sea scape. We then paddled our kayaks into the most magical maze of Islands, interconnected by narrow passageways. Some spots we were pushed through by the tidal flow and others we pushed against it. Every corner we turned led us into a new and magical world. The low fog heightened the experience and as I looked around at the other paddlers and seeing the look of awe on their faces, I came to the conclusion that we had stumbled onto one of the most beautiful kayaking archipelagos on the coast. It was truly a dream world. Once again, if this were in a more populated area, it would be deemed a kayakers paradise. Out here, simply another surprise for only us lucky individuals to enjoy.

Our secret paddling destination

Our last day brought us back to Bella-Bella where we said goodbye to our fellow kayakers. This was without a doubt one of the most memorable kayaking tours I had ever been on. The Columbia crew, the guides, Fern's amazing cooking and the other guests made for an unforgettable experience. Paddling the Great Bear Rainforest.

I then was fortunate enough to be able to stay on the Columbia to continue exploring the Great Bear Rainforest for an additional ten days. We call this product development; A very important part of my job of course. ;-) This was ten days of paddling estuaries teaming with Grizzlies, many more encounters with wolves, more eagles than you can ever imagine and more fjords with 5000 foot water falls. The ecological diversity and pristine wilderness in the Great Bear Rainforest is like nowhere else on earth and I just cant wait to share the Great Bear Rainforest with my Spirit of the West guests.

Mothership tour to the Great Bear Rainforest 2005

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